Min Quattro projekt.

Har du stora planer på G? Vi vill se och vi vill prata om det!
4v6
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Min Quattro projekt.

Inlägg av 4v6 » lör jul 07, 2012 19:23

Som utlovat några bilder på mitt projekt bil.

Heres lite bakgrundsinformation för att ställa scenen.
Jag blev först medveten om bilen tillbaka i slutet av 2008, ITD funnits ett tag och hadnt säljs.
Den tillhörde en amerikansk servicetekniker som baseras på en flygbas i Sussex England som köpte den förmodligen i avsikt att få igång tillräckligt bra för att tävla runt i den.
Tyvärr tog alla hans pengar och lämnade honom torr, men att vara rättvis till bilen, det var inte allt ner till den.

Så jag gjorde några förfrågningar, gjorde HPI grejer (fordon historia check), fick en kopia av V5 antalet och kontrolleras och kunde inte avgöra.
Då jag vaknade upp en morgon och sa "bugger det", arrangerad för att gå och se den och göra ett erbjudande om det var vad jag ville.
Såg det, såg sig omkring den, hörde det köra och fastän jag visste att det behövde mer pengar än det var värt vid den tidpunkten för att sätta det rätt, var det perfekta projektet för att göra långsiktigt och få tillbaka i gott skick, så med att jag arrangerade en pickup datum och fick det släpvagn hem.

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Efter det tillbaka och hoppas att det inte var för långt borta att fixa ...

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Avlastas.

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Allt jag trodde att det skulle behöva det så småningom skulle behöva ha.
Jag tänkte att till fullo ersätta allt under den som var som misstänks vara slitna.
Föga anade jag inse att det skulle innebära så mycket av delar och tillhörande kostnader du alltid får med dessa saker.
Fyra av det mesta faktiskt.
Den slutliga listan (inte uttömmande på något sätt såg ut lite som detta).
Brake calipersx4, bultar och discsx4 shocksx4 och springsx4 och strut bästa mountsx4, chock rör sköldar smuts och stötar stannar x4, hjul bearingsx4, CV jointsx1, CV bootsX4, broms flexisx4, främre vindruta, taklucka panel, Kopplingssats, svänghjul, 20valve turbo motor ( redan att ... som köper en motor innan bilen? jag!) bromsservo och huvudcylinder, dragstänger ...... för att nämna lite av allt.

Det var en del ganska djupgående reparationer av skalet behövs som ITD hade slarvigt kapade upp som skadade underredet beläggningen vid något tillfälle mening rost hade sitt eget sätt alldeles för länge.

Mer att följa ...

4v6
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Inlägg av 4v6 » lör jul 07, 2012 19:38

När det var säkert parkerad i "grottan" jag in för att arbeta strippa fronten nedåt.
Motorn var tvungen att komma ut på grund av att ersätta försökte få också, dess 20valve 5 cylindrig turbomotor från den stora S4 egendom, 230bhp lager med en bucketload av vridmoment och mindre ändringar i mappningen av en bra kille OOP norr och itll går 280ish på lager injektorer som är där id vilja ha det.

Så kom motorn ut snabbt och var helt helt slut.

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Jag tog med drivrutiner vingen av vid samma tidpunkt eftersom jag märkt det tidigare tagits bort och om theyre inte korrekt förseglad får du en rost fälla.
Ja var rostiga!

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Den 20 ventilmotor sitter på golvet i den här bilden väntar på sin chans att göra sin sak.

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Strippa ner den gamla 10 valver hittade jag en avgasventil som var på väg att misslyckas, var det sprack runt huvudet.

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Anledningen till att det ska hända (det är en avgasventil BTW) är i nästa bild.

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Vad det foto visar är en bild på avgasporten från chamberside, cheferna utanför det ventilerna bort och vi ser tillbaka ner det samma väg avgaserna ser.
I centrum är ventilen guiden och dess hade sin dag.
Spruckit på grund onödigt slitage, föreslår boken spec en maximal slitstyrka gräns på 1,3 mm ventilens sten mätt i spetsen av ventilen vid maximal lyft ... jag hade 5mm ..
Vad som händer är guiden inte "styra" ventilen till sitt säte, så det kommer ner från mitten och studsar runt så småningom sprickbildning ventilen.

Du kan bara se att guide i nästa skott titta åt andra hållet upp porten.

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Ok tillbaka till karossen och att rostat flänsen området.
När du har skurit rosten veta att jag hade ett hål ... Vem hade trott det?

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Med TIG svetsaren i kryssade reparation del tillbaka med en bara 33 ampere innan fullt svetsa reparation patch i och linishing bort överskottet svets materialet.

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Heres pjäsen som kom ut vs hur det såg ut när repareras.

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Par veckor går, är färgen avlägsnas ur motorrummet, framvagn går en promenad, den sortens sak och im vänster med ett skal och tanken har tagit på sig för mycket?

Bilar ser mindre än helhet.

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Även hade jag kommit ganska bra med det med tanke på hur några timmar spenderades på det, har så motorrummet rivits tillbaka till ren metall, all rost bort och metallen etch primade.

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När det var förminskad ner och rengöras en kunde sätta några av rätt färg igen.
Ser riktigt trevligt i satin jag tror men du kan inte tyvärr lämna det på det sättet.

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Jag kunde när klarlacken hade torkat att göra göra ett test passning av motorn.
Ser ut som det var tänkt att vara där som det var, som det fanns en 20valve "RR" modell fram så det en naturlig utveckling att uppgradera motorn, OH och cos det är en mycket mer kraftfull.

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För många år sedan jag ägde en Audi GT Coupe, och jag hade alltid som de quad strålkastare som viss modell hade och eftersom de främre ändarna är i övrigt identisk det dröjde inte länge innan jag hittade en uppsättning av dem och ersatte de gamla enkla bit cibie enheter bilen kom med.

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Edis
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Inlägg av Edis » lör jul 07, 2012 19:46

Nice!! Very nice work with your car! Looking forward to see what your are doing on your car!! *yes*

Welcome to this forum! :D

4v6
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Inlägg av 4v6 » lör jul 07, 2012 20:15

Tack så mycket Edis!

I hope my translations arent too far out to understand. :)

Ill post some more up soon...there is a lot!

4v6
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Inlägg av 4v6 » mån jul 09, 2012 12:09

En av de många arbetstillfällen den er dykt upp på denna bygga så långt var det här.

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Dess syfte inne i ventilationsluckor panelen där ett hål hade skoningslöst hackad i syfte att undvika borttagning pedallådan för att byta en läckande huvudcylinder.
Aj! Vilken röra och var cruedly täcks över med spackel och underredsmassa.
Det enda är det hade läckt in och droppade på rattstången stödlagret rost så den hade ett otäckt galler från rattstången.
Tur att jag lyckades att köpa en ersättare som var ett mirakel.

Eftersom jag hade för avsikt att montera Motronic ecun direkt under den (nowehere annat för det att leva egentligen) jag bestämde mig för det bästa sättet att handskas med det var att klippa ut helt och sätta en annan panel i.
Lyckligtvis för mig en god vän bröt en coupe gt som har exakt samma panel, så jag hjälpte honom klä ner det och fick det panel för att hjälpa till.
Efter trimning den och ta bort bitumen ljuddämpning jag hade en bra ersättare panel.

Gamla panel rester.

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Ny panel.

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Jag skar en korrekt hål ut att passa ledningar genomföringen till och förstärkt den med en ring såg på från baksidan.

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Med den fettled att passa i punktsvetsas runt periferin och tillämpas en beläggning av en färg som kallas POR15, bra färg mycket tufft ut pulverlackering färg.

I den här bilden målar verkligen torra men det ser blött och så tuff som gamla stövlar.

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Med den målade och fogen tätas jag kunde använda en bitumen pad som originalet hade.

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På grund av att det finns en plast vatten sköld över området och eftersom dess högre än omgivande material, vatten komma i kommer inte att vara ett problem någonsin igen.
Så med detta område säkras jag kunde testa montera ecun och lägga ut ledningar körs samtidigt ändra kabelnät.

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Detta foton från passeneger sidan och visar de steg effektnivåer att skjuta spolarna monterade på en stor tjock stållegeringsplåt att hålla dem svalna och ledningar.

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En av de andra saker detta ID lade märke till om bilen när jag gick för att se att det var näsan upp attityd hade, det var inte mycket, men jag visste att det inte var rätt.
avlasta den från släpet och flytta runt gav en intressant "doinging" brus och några obehagliga slipning ljud från baksidan.
När bilen var av dess rullar jag kunde ta en titt under och få en bättre uppfattning om vad som hände.

Video av vad jag hittade.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifvxcRIdhEw

Thats roadspring lyfta av sätet och koppen .... :Crazy: det betyder att fjädrarna kan skevhet över om hjulen som någonsin lämnat marken och skulle vara en omedelbar MOT misslyckas, vilket var roligt cos det motd ...:lol:

Gallret / slipning ljud orsakades av den misslyckade övre montering kopp (toppmonterad sitter på den) som orsakas av fjädern är oversize på diameter i slutet i stället för oval.

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En till vänster är vad som kom ut, en till höger är vad den borde ha haft.

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Bakre dämpare var orginal och ändå fungerat ganska bra ... 1983 ....: lol:

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Bakre bumpstops sköt helt, samma historia på framsidan också.

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4v6
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Inlägg av 4v6 » mån jul 09, 2012 12:13

En av de många problem som du hittar när du köper en av dessa bilar är att massa delarna är helt enkelt inte längre availble, det är en stående skämt i Audi samhället sin "NLA" igen ....

Samma problem uppstod med de smutsiga / sten sköldar som sitter bakom bromsskivorna.
Mestadels theyve vände sig till damm efter 30 år och exponering för klimat och miljö theyre verkar under, var min inte annorlunda.
Eftersom det inte fanns någon återförsäljare lösning eller eftermarknaden man antingen jag bestämde mig för att göra det tyvärr de flesta inte kan dessa dagar, gjorde jag min egen.

Heres "tillbaka till naturen" punkt på höger och till vänster min rostfria prototyp hela handen och tryck som bildas av undertecknad.

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I fotot styva delar och clearance pressningar är synliga, thats de indrag du kan se.
De ger utrymme för att balljoint som sitter bakom det och troget kopierar det ursprungliga objektet.

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Den balljoint lever direkt bakom dem så här.

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Mellan rippa saker att bitar, rengöra dem, blästring av rost och ommålning dem alla, har id samla delar till en dag skruva ihop allt med.

De främre stagenheter så småningom blev klar i ca £ 500 (5,442SEK) var ... och thats gör det själv bara i fråga om delar kostnaderna så Theres 2k är värt delar bara på fjädringskomponenter ensam ... klunk.

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fortfarande mer att följa ....

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Edis
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Inlägg av Edis » mån jul 09, 2012 16:53

Nice pics!! :D The translation makes the text very funny to read in some parts :lol:

Keep up the good work *yes*

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bruzze
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Inlägg av bruzze » mån jul 09, 2012 21:52

Nice to see and read about your great work on this classic! But as Edis wrote, the text gets a bit funny sometimes! For me it would be OK if you wrote in English. Most swedes can read and understand English. Those who can't can translate it. That's my opinion! But I'm not the only reader here :-)

Bruzze

4v6
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Inlägg av 4v6 » tis sep 17, 2013 13:09

Update report time!

The following posts detail progress from 20-06-2012 to the present day....

With the stripdown of the old celica done and dusted some weeks ago i now have a garage full of parts off that as well, its getting cramped in here.
That means im kinda limited to what i can until ive got the remaining underside parts sorted out, that being the exhaust mainly and a little bit of messing with the fuel lines as im not entirely happy with the routing of them to and from the filter.

Before any of that though.....

I got the quad light surrounds that Matt (Zermatt gt ) kindly sent me over and prepped and painted them so theyre more "euro" spec than blingo edition, gotta admit they look way better painted.

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I also got the underfloor felting sorted out and fitted, along with the carpets, still at bit untidy at this stage , hey, its a work in progress! :)

Original diff panel removed and gauge pod fitted, i like that look a lot better than the orginal pull knob thingy and since the diffs are now effectively locked out permananently until i decide what to do with em and since its only going on the road in the summer im unlikely to ever need them.
A case of being practical.

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Got a replacement height adjustable seat base from a club member (cant remember who now but thanks! :) ) and got rid of the bodged up one.
Had to do some minor weld repairs to it where the sheet base cracks around the welds on these, and take off the adjuster handle bracket (swapover to fit mine) other than that its way better!

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Tacked before tig.

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I also gave the interior trim a good clean and the upholstery a vac and dry foam wash, it was absolutely filthy!


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Finally set to work on paint stripping the sunroof panel as a test to see how long itd take and what lay underside...

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Bit of surface rust and spidering from the edges inward.
Panel appears to be coated at the factory with some form of protection.

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Theres some rust inside on the bracing that needs a bit of work so ill strip that side too and repair it.

The osf wing also got stripped yesterday, paint was thicker'n hell.
This is the one i did that solder repair to on the top edge.

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Conclusion. Audi quattro front wings appear to be glavanised.

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So, finish the top mounting flange of that wing today and start the nsf wing.......

4v6
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Inlägg av 4v6 » tis sep 17, 2013 13:10

Been a busy messy few days.

Got both the front wings stripped of paint back to bare metal.

Curiousness. Os wing is galvanised, passeneger original is not, oddly its in better condition than the galvanised item.

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Paint was extremely thick on the passenger side, around 12 layers that i could count and some filler to a dent repair that will need re-instating.

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Also started the bonnet.
Lots of work in this item as its the wrong colour and has/had some rust scabs on the bracing which needed work, so yesterday and today i spent most of my time prepping that.
Should be done on the inside tomorrow and the bonnets in otherwise A1 condition, thankfully! :)

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The cavity wax injected inside is a great idea when the things finished, but for a repaint its a bloody pest as paint wont stick to it so i spent the best part of 2 hours with a couple of paint brushes and a toothbrush plus a couple of litres of panel wipe, removing it, then the new paint will go inside and colour the underside of the bonnet skin and itll all be one colour.
Little more tomorrow on that tho before its done entirely.

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4v6
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Inlägg av 4v6 » tis sep 17, 2013 13:11

Well am definitely getting there, even though theres a loooot of stuff to do to get it road ready.

Ive now almost all but completed the bonnet, having stripped all the paint off it and filled the odd few dings and dents that existed.
Im quite happy with it so far.

Cos sometimes i screw up (cos im no more perfect than anyone) and a small screw up, thats what id consider it anyways, is the colour of the vehicle.
Looking at the paint under the bonnet, im A) Not happy with how its finished, so out comes the engine again.
B) I fancy a change from black.
So, some shocking chavesque eyecocking paint colour it is then!

Just kidding ive not taken leave of my senses just yet.


Bonnet stripped.

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Sunroof stripped and rust repaired.

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Surface , all hand done btw as my sander died a while back.

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Yours truly hard at it.

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4v6
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Inlägg av 4v6 » tis sep 17, 2013 13:12

Well still proceeding with this one, passenger wing repairs are completed, included two areas that needed a light skim of filler to sort out the panel ripples from a previous parking shunt.
Took quite a while to get it so that with the flat of your hand you can feel no transitions or surface changes as you go over it.
Still has to have the outer panel surfaces scuffed and cleaned before epoxy primer and surfacer, block sanding to ensure its perfectly flat etc then itll be ready for paint, bonnet the same, drivers wing in progress and almost finished, derusted too.

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4v6
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Inlägg av 4v6 » tis sep 17, 2013 13:12

Some fiddly, difficult stuff done over the past few days, the paint job that was done on the car was utter shite to put it mildly, comes off in places with a fingernail.
Took this off by hand its like vinyl wrap almost.

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Anyways, since i had the passenger wing sorted it was time to start the door apertures, lots of effort required on these due to the shapes involved.
First off i got to work stripping the paint off the sill, it was massively thick and could be sheared off with a scraper mostly.
The top layers simply wernt keyed in at all.

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At this point the door is becoming a nuisance so it had to be removed anyway, i half guessed thered be no waterproof membrane inside and i was right.
Mr bodgers strike again....

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They also cut the wiring about which is more efforts for me unless i can get an uncut harness, but i bet the drivers door is the same, its sure to be. Tossers.

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So with the door off i had great access to the sill and the rest of the area and started stripping off the paint.

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Hard work but im really enjoying it.

4v6
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Inlägg av 4v6 » tis sep 17, 2013 13:14

Time for an update on this one i think.
In fact i have not been the worlds laziest bastard and just allowed this to drag onwards, ive actually been on it most every day up until 10 pm and having loadsa funs with it. :)

Since my last update id made a decision to complete the main bodywork issues and get the car in primer in 6 to 8 weeks, a bit of a tall order now i look back at it.
Sounds like a long time and it is when everything is done by hand on your own in cramped conditions although the time soon counts down in rapid fashion.
It gets even longer when further metalwork issues jump into the fray and give you even more work to complete, a veritable domino effect.
However my determination to get this one done has/is paying/paid off.
After completeing the strip back to bare metal of the bonnet, the wings and the door apertures, the passenger door got the same treatment including some attention to a little surface rust on the foldover lap joint underneath it.



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Heading rearwards the dire state of the paint and underlying prepwork became obvious, with the discovery of around 10 to 12mm of filler on the rear quarter panel behind the passenger door trailing edge and further filler on the arch itself.
The whole lot had been simply trowelled on and run down with a DA sander leaving a shape that didnt exactly match the original but looked close enough, the fact that it wasnt necessary shows how crap a job had been done by various parties over the cars chequered past..
It took close to a week of solid effort to get the bare minimum skim installed and get the shape right on that passenger arch but the effort was in my opinion worth it to remove the unecessary filler and reinstate the shape to the damaged areas.

Vacancy for a stripper. Loads of paint on this car, up to 1mm thick in places.

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Once that was completed the drivers side got the same treatment and more effort due to the further discovery of more filler in the sill area which covered yet more damage.
I spent the best part of week fettling that area and fixing the jackup damage ( dents) but its as good as it can be for a non professional like me.
Also I found what appears to be a bullet hole in the upper part of the rear quarter close to the A pillar.
Fairly neat hole with a few rips and tears to the edges, looks too irregular to be most anything else unless some sort of spike was rammed through but surrounding damage is extremely limited so I dunno!

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Stripping off the rest of the panels paints revealed yet more expanses of heavy filler covering dents and creases in the skin which simply didnt need to be so thick so it was all removed back to bare steel and the whole lot steadily built up in very thin layers to get the shape back with minimal filler depth.

Weeks have now passed and the roof is begging to have its paint removed, and so the scraper is re-employed to shear off the crappy top layer before litres of paint stripper remove and soften the underlying layers.
I must have removed about 15kgs of paint from this car so far and all of it was crap.
No issues of any worth found on the roof panel! Happy!

Audilorean.

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With most of that that attended to, the boot area needed attention.
Id always known the car had suffered from a rear impact but at one point I thought I could possibly fix the damage by carefully pulling it out.
Not gonna happen-ever.
The whole rear end had gone in probably around 1 to 1.5 inches, concentrated on the offside.
The upper corner and light aperture on the driver side was full of filler at about 10 to 15mm depth, shape was totally wrong and looked it.

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I later found out it had oodles of birdshit weld to fill it all in as well, absolutely horrible.
The boot lid wouldnt sit squarely with the height differences between each corner being obvious, also the lineup with the edges and the lower sections of the boot lid meant itd never have been right so I decided to get a new rear valance from Pete at quattrocorner rather than pay out for a second hand item thatd need even more prep and had no guarantee of straightness.
Getting that part showed me just how difficult it would have been, impossible actually, to straighten out what I had, it simply was so badly damaged and distorted that it would never have worked.

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So with my new panel sorted it took a day of hard work to carefully split the spot welds, preserving the flanges on the body panels and remove the old junker.

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Took another couple of days to get the locations cleaned and trued up to accept the new panel for test fits.

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Wasnt a million miles away as it happens but far enough out to warrant more work, especially to that drivers rear light aperture and corner area where the old one was so buckled the light unit wouldnt sit flat at all and it overhung the panel. Nasty looking and was just plain nasty.
I briefly considered fabricating a replacement but thought better of it, just too much hassle to do it.

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By now im deep into this one and getting deeper so I looked around for a rear corner panel I could cut up, Dave at audicoupeparts came up with one and I spent the best part of 3 to 4 days cutting, trimming, checking, test fitting and trimming again to get it mm perfect in terms of lineup- a right pain in the arse I can tell you with the distortion of the existing panel but at least the shapes right, theres no rust there anymore and it looks pretty good.
So with more cajoling, drilling holes for spot welds and fretting about the fit I started the job of welding it all in.
The corner and light aperture part had to go on second due to the lower panel having a return formed in it that was left after I removed the light aperture it came with.
That aperture was eventually dispensed with as I found it impossible to get a good lineup with it attached, so the original panel from pete was used and doing it that way made it easier to get it fitted correctly, or as close as it could go given the whack the rear had taken.
It then took another few days of multiple test fits, drilling the positions for new spot welds and yet more test fits.

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One thing I had noticed when test fitting was that it was going to be hard to push the panel into position at the bottom due to flex and misalignment in the original panelling on the car, so I utilised my ratchet straps and a couple of wood blocks and with an eye bolt welded to a long bolt screwed into the fuel tank bracket, the other end hooked into the subframe to gently encourage it to position before I set about tacking and welding it all in.

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More time gone out the deadline and lots of grinding down of welds to make it right led to finally applying the seam sealer underneath and the use of some polyurethane seam sealer for the ends of the panel as per the original item.
Once set, the whole seam edges inside the boot were blasted with weld thru primer ( high zinc content) so it would find its way between the two sheets and preserve them for years to come, although id already sprayed them days before as further insurance, then the inner panel overlaps were treated to a coating of Upol grey stripe brush on seam sealer, stinks bad but does the job nicely so it looks rather good.

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Then to finish off, a couple of sound deadening panels were installed to cut down on drumming noise.

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I had previously test fitted the boot lid, its seal and the lock mechanism, but no way would it work and it took Mr Brain a few moments of confusion to notice that the dickhead that is me had installed the striker on backwards...doh!
Once that was put on right and adjusted it all sat fine.
Its not 100% "perfect" but compared to how it was when I first had it, its 99 % right.

After filling the repair panel with a very thin skim due to weld distortion I set about refitting the boot liners and carpets.
Amazing how much better it all looks when its cleaned and fitted nicely, not to mention it gets them out of storage and secured inside where they belong.
Theres a new carpet section to glue in over the boot loading "ledge" area shortly too.

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After roughly masking off the boot and light apertures I could set about regaining the shape of the panel and getting rid of the slight uneveness caused by welding it in.
Its not much but a flat of the hand shows it up like a sore thumb.
Once a few hours passed it was ready for its first squirt of etch primer which exposed a few feather edges and little marks which ill sort out on the next pass.

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So next job to complete is to finish around the sunroof aperture and strip the drivers door.

Two weeks left on my deadline too so should make it. :tup:

4v6
GT-intresserad
Inlägg: 24
Blev medlem: lör jul 07, 2012 12:01
Ort: England

Inlägg av 4v6 » tis sep 17, 2013 13:15

Ok so with the backend in the best condition its been for some years i turned my focus to the engine bay.
Now, i could have gone two ways here, the hard way or the easy way, consisting of three options, none of which really attracted me, still, ya have to pick one of em!

So, 1) leave the bay black and live with the outside being lhasa.
2) Scuff and paint the engine bay and attempt to work around the engine.
3) pull the engine, strip the whole f*king lot off and start at bare metal stage.
4) This is the worst option i think; Give up and sell the lot. :lol:

Stupidity, stubborness, call it what you will forced me to go option 3.
I couldnt stand the thought of having gone this far and then have a different paint colour in the bay for want of a couple of weeks slog....
And thats where i am now, deep, deep, deep in the midst of a cramped and dark engine bay, stripping off paint back to the wood so to speak, poor me.

As always, things arent ever so easy as just pulling the engine and going to it, oh no, how to get the engine out since its now connected to the gearbox and theres no room to remove it out the front?
I considered just about everything but decided to cut the front off the car, im not THAT concerned about originality any longer and it means cambelts become a breeze rather than a chore.
However, ive removed it with an eye to refitting it so that it looks as close to what it should as possible and ill do that with hidden bolts and tabs welded into relevant points to hold it all together, no problem, just more work. :(
With the front end carefully removed i could attack the engines lower pulley having locked it with mine humungous locking bar thing.
It nearly bent due to the tension on that bolt however some heat applied to it softened the sealing compound and it eventually came free so ill change the water pump, idler roller and belt before it goes back in.

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With that out of the way my attention turned to something thats been bugging me ever since i fitted it; The brake servo.
It fitted fine where the oem hydro assisted unit sat but the piping was messy, irritated me no end and i finally succumbed to the desire to relocate it to the drivers side for a direct acting pedal, short and neat line runs and a warm feeling inside.
Having done precsely the same mod to my old 82 coupe gt i knew the servo wont go in as is, the strut tower needs to be ahem, "massaged" in the right place.
No such worries for CQ owners as the servos already fitted on the drivers side so who am i to argue?
In order to actually fit the servo, you also have to remove the little triangulation piece above the intended location that holds the coil of the Ur and also the cover plate thats bolted and welded in as standard on all these shells.
Much fun was to be had, the kind of fun that only a contortionist in a box of dildos might have in the removal of the old pull rod linkage to the passenger side but eventually brute forcce and ignorance triumphed over a well thought out and executed plan.

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I also had to shorten the "top hat" mount that the servo bolts up to as the Ur one is a tad too long.
If i could kick myself in the bollocks with my left leg i would be walking oddly today as i had previously thrown out the short one i needed some time back, ahh well alls well that ends well.
Currently about 2 thirds of the way around the engine bay is stripped back so it should be ready for some paint in the next few days....theres another load of fun to be had.

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4v6
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Inlägg: 24
Blev medlem: lör jul 07, 2012 12:01
Ort: England

Inlägg av 4v6 » tis sep 17, 2013 13:16

Well im still progressing on this one and no signs of me gaining any sense at all and giving up on it! :D

Engine bays all stripped of paint, that was done in a couple of days.

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While i waited for various paint suppliers to sort their shit out ( the one in birmingham lost my custom due to their lack of phone or email contact back to me-your loss fellas) i cracked on with this removable front panel.

Happy to report it works as expected and allows removal of the complete panel for engine access work without appearing to be so.
Ive put in a number of stealthy fixings that replace the factory spot welds and allow the use of bolts without being particularly obvious.

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Oh yeah and the paint arrived this afternoon. :D

I opted for the original maker (basf) and although more expensive than some its the right stuff and the colour should be spot on as well.
The stuff shown here is simply the epoxy primer/surfacer and hopefully i can start getting that applied this coming week.
Its all getting rather exciting!

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4v6
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Ort: England

Inlägg av 4v6 » tis sep 17, 2013 13:17

Well after a few billion test fits and checks to see the front panel could be fitted and removed with the wings still attached and finding it could (phew) i finally took the plunge today and laid down some epoxy primer.

The plan was to put a couple of coats on the engine bay only, however i mixed a little too much and since this stuffs so expensive theres no way it was going to be wasted so i painted the inside of the bonnet id prepped months ago, the wings and shuts and the sills.

What can i say? Its the first time ive sprayed this stuff (had my proper PPE on!) and its absolutely ace!
I love the finish and the way it goes on, way better than anything ive used before.

Some of the fixings.
I used stainless steel to fabricate the various pieces.

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I might just get this bugger done for summer... :)

4v6
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Inlägg av 4v6 » tis sep 17, 2013 13:17

Bee well and truly in the bonnet today!

Started masking it all up at about 730 ish this morning spent until 1 oclock fettling, degreasing and making sure i hadnt missed something, then went and painted the rest of the shell.

Two full wet coats with the proscribed flash off time and a further coat on filled areas to build some piant film on scratches and pinholes of which i found a few, nothing major and will get sorted shortly.

So, let the spraying commence!
Harder than it looks when youre so cramped but made no mistakes other than buying the car in the first place :D and by 4 ish id got it all done and the cleanup in full swing.

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Primed?

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Still to do, the doors, boot lid and sunroof.

And i still have about 2 litres of paint left for those "little" jobs.
Much happier now as its protected against the possibility of damp and the rust that promotes.

4v6
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Ort: England

Inlägg av 4v6 » tis sep 17, 2013 13:18

Was up at 4 am today and out in the garage at 5.30 doing the prep on the doors, bootlid, drivers wing and sunroof panel.

Finally all done on the priming work, so next stop is block sanding ready for colour...thatll take a while as its all done by hand and just takes time to trudge through, still, should look good when its done.

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4v6
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Inlägg av 4v6 » tis sep 17, 2013 13:21

Well i got another painting session out the way earlier this week, needed to build a bit of extra paint depth here and there and tried out a different gun i had which put the primer on fairly well.

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A few days later and some idiots vandalized it with a blue spray can.....had to be done, its called a "guide coat".

The way it works is a contrasting colour, in this case blue basecoat (could be black, pink or puke green dosent matter) is just gobbed over the surface.
The paint goes all over as you can see and falls in high and low spots which when rubbed back with a block and 600 grit wet and dry will expose those low areas and allow you to know when theyve been sanded to the surrounding paint level and hence indicates when to move elsewhere.

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This where ive started on the left rear quarter, the blue gets removed and is left in dips and low spots, guiding us to a nice flat surface on which to chuck our expensive base and clears. :smilewinkgrin:

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Mr Marigold here is pointing to a low spot.

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If youve read all my entire saga on this one, youll remember how badly knocked about this arch was, so to see a good undistorted reflection in it makes me feel a bit happy, same on the osr as well im sure.

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By 8.30 tonight id done the rear quarter and most of the passenger door, took around 5 hours but curiously i enjoyed it.
Somethings not right with that! :)

Probably should have it ready for colour by midweek as i sanded the engine bay a few days ago, getting closer to the big one.

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